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The Tiny Bay Hemmed in by a pair of wooded headlands, a perfect curve of white sand arcs north from a pile of hug boulders to the spur of Sahyadri Ghat, which here tapers into the sea. Until recently foreign tourists were few and far between in Palolem. Over the past five or six years, however, increasing numbers of budget travellers have begun to find their way here, and the village is now far from the undiscovered idyll it used to be, with a string of cafes, Karnatakan hawkers and a tent camp crowding the beachfront. |
Souvenir stalls have also sprung up, catering mainly for the mini-van and boat parties of charter tourists on day trips from resorts further north. In spite of these encroachments, Palolem remains a resolutely traditional village, where the easy pace of life is dictated more by the three daily rounds of Todi (also spelt as Toddy) tapping than the exigencies of tourism.
Eating Out
With the beach now lined along its entire length with brightly lit
shack cafes, finding somewhere to eat in Palolem is not a problem,
although the locals have to buy in most of their fish from Margao and
Karwar. The one outstanding place is the Classic Restaurant, where one
can tuck into delicious, freshly baked Western wholefood and cakes.
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More popular among budget travellers, though, is Sun 'n' Moon, behind the middle of the beach; when it closes, the die-hard drinkers head through the palm trees to nearby Dylan's Bar, which stays open until the last customer has staggered home. For optimum sunset views of the bay, head for the obscurely named Found Things bar and restaurant, at the far southern end of Palolem beach, which faces west. Travellers on tight budgets should also note the row of tiny Bhaji stalls outside the Beach Resort, where one can order tasty and filling breakfasts of Pao Bhaji, fluffy bread rolls, Omlettes and Chai (tea) for next to nothing. |
How To Get There
By Road
Buses run between Margao and Karwar via Chaudi where one can pick up an
auto rickshaw or taxi to Palolem. Alternatively, get off at the Char
Rostay crossroads, 1.5-km before Chaudi, and walk the remaining
kilometre or so to the village. A couple of buses each day also goes
all the way to Palolem from Margao; these stop at the end of the lane
leading from the main street to the beachfront. The last bus from
Palolem to Chaudi/ Margao leaves at 4.30pm; check with the local for
the times, which change seasonally.
Local Transport
Cycles On Rent: Cycles may be rented from a stall halfway along the
main street.
Places To Stay
With the exception of the beach Resort's tent camp and a handful or recently built guesthouses, most of Palolem's accommodation consists of simple rooms in family homes, with basic washing and toilet facilities shared by visitors and members of the household. The budget places, however are to be found in Colomb, around the headland south of Palolem village, where Hindu fishing families rent rooms, and occasionally small houses, to long- staying foreigners.
General Information
Location
2-km West Of Chaudi, Canacona District, South Goa
Best Time
November To March
Useful Information
The village has only a couple of public telephones, but avoid the one in the beach resort, which charges more than double the going rate for international calls, and head for the reasonable ISD/STD booth next to the bus stop.
Banks / Money Changers
At present, there is nowhere in Palolem or Chaudi to change money; the
nearest bank with a foreign exchange facility is in Margao.
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